I'm not sure if it's the sleeve more than the back. I'd say there'd be more extra fabric in the body than in the sleeve so rather than take it in only at seams, I'd try throwing a small dart into the armhole or wherever you see bunching to get it to lay flatter and then just remove (close up/edit out) the dart when you're drafting your final pattern. You also might not have put enough ease into the armhole seam and side seam just below the armhole to allow for give as an additional source of wrinkling.
If you do want to try to use the women's as a base, combining princess seams shouldn't be too hard to do - had to do it on my vest and also in a patternmaking class I took @ Pratt we took basic bodices and created princess seam from it so as long as you line up the proper meeting points along the seam and remove the seam allowance you should be fine.
As far as flattening you out, I wouldn't be too concerned w/ that in the women's pattern - just looking at the photo of the woman wearing it, you can hardly see her chest or curves; you can see some and tell that it's "feminine" but not overly that having your corset underneath affecting your measurements to be a problem. I'd say when you're ready to tackle the jacket again do another muslin mockup and then take it in/trim as necessary.
Good luck~
Btw in case you're interested, this is the evil vest I'm mentioning: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1333/3264693539_b860531a61.jpg I started with a jacket pattern that had a few of the elements I needed and then destroyed the thing to get the desired lines and pieces out of it XD
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timeasmymeasure
no subject
Date: 2009-04-10 05:39 am (UTC)If you do want to try to use the women's as a base, combining princess seams shouldn't be too hard to do - had to do it on my vest and also in a patternmaking class I took @ Pratt we took basic bodices and created princess seam from it so as long as you line up the proper meeting points along the seam and remove the seam allowance you should be fine.
As far as flattening you out, I wouldn't be too concerned w/ that in the women's pattern - just looking at the photo of the woman wearing it, you can hardly see her chest or curves; you can see some and tell that it's "feminine" but not overly that having your corset underneath affecting your measurements to be a problem. I'd say when you're ready to tackle the jacket again do another muslin mockup and then take it in/trim as necessary.
Good luck~
Btw in case you're interested, this is the evil vest I'm mentioning:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1333/3264693539_b860531a61.jpg
I started with a jacket pattern that had a few of the elements I needed and then destroyed the thing to get the desired lines and pieces out of it XD